In many ways, Paris is best visited in winter. The tourist crowds are at a minimum, and one is not being jammed off the narrow sidewalks along the Rue Dauphine. More than this, Paris is like many other European cities in that the season of blockbuster cultural events tends to begin in mid- to late fall and so, by the time winter, bracing and demanding, appears, most of the cultural treasures of the city are laid out to be admired. For example, the Louvre has a show on China’s Forbidden City that started at the end of September and will run till early January; the Musée du Luxembourg has a gorgeous exhibition called Cézanne and Paris, which started in October and will go through February; and the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, maintaining its recent record of truly surprising reconsiderations of art that we thought we already knew, is showing Matisse, Cézanne, and Picasso through the collecting habits of one American family, the Steins.
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