Ancient Romans once fled to the Venetian Lagoon to escape Attila the Hun. These days, discerning travelers are going there to get away from the marauding hordes in Venice's commercial center, which hides behind a carnival mask of mass tourism.
With sighs of relief, they find sanctuary at places like Venissa, tel: (39-041) 527 2281, a world-class restaurant with six stylishly spare rooms set on an idyllic vineyard estate on Mazzorbo Island, just across a footbridge from the quaint fishing enclave of Burano. Chef Paola Baudel serves up innovative dishes featuring fresh local catch and organic produce from the nascent garden, such as raw monkfish with gelatin minestrone, and sliced octopus atop pea-and-mint cream.
Veneto winery Bisol is reviving the vineyard as part of a lagoon-restoration project that began with Isola della Certosa, where it runs a hotel and restaurant, tel: (39-041) 277 8632. Nearby is a design school focusing on traditional boatbuilding and a marina where you can take sailing lessons or rent a vessel. If you go for an evening sail, you might pass a clam digger on the Baccan sandbar.
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