The coast is crashing, craggy, a brutal
wildness resembling an eagle clawing into the sea. It is tough walking
but the views constantly reward.
I decide to walk the section from St David’s to Goodwick (just outside Fishguard), stay in B&Bs and try to use only public transport.
You can’t get lost in Great Britain’s smallest city. St David’s seems to be composed entirely of a cathedral - which looks rather aware of its own importance - and shops spilling tat to the crowds, but ten minutes’ walk and you can feel the ocean spray.
After a hearty breakfast of cockles and laverbread at The Coach House B&B I set off for Whitesands Bay, a wide expanse of sand with a new café and plenty of body surfers.